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Cruises to Malta bring you to an exquisite gem in the Mediterranean, basking in year-round sunshine off the southern tip of Sicily. This island and its even tinier sisters may be miniature, but together, they pack an astonishing punch. Explore the towering bastions and grand palaces of the capital, Valletta, hewn from honey-colored limestone in the 16th century by the wealthy Knights of St. John. Jump back thousands of years to some of the world’s most impressive prehistoric temples, then fly forward again through time to the war-torn 1940s, when just three airplanes defended the entire island from enemy bombardment.
Linger over coffee in one of Valletta’s sunlit squares—there’s a strong Italian influence here, as you’ll see—and take in views of the magnificent Grand Harbour from the flower-filled Upper Barrakka Gardens. Exploring further afield is easy, too, thanks to Malta’s compact size—so check out Mdina, the walled “Silent City,” or hop on the ferry across to sleepy Gozo. The biggest challenge? Narrowing down what to see in a place so overflowing with history and culture.
Don’t be fooled by the austere exterior of Valletta’s most important church, built by the Knights of St. John in the 16th century. Step inside, and you’ll be dazzled by the sheer opulence; every surface drips with gleaming, gilded ornamentation. Explore the eight Baroque chapels, one for each division of the Order of the Knights. A highlight is Caravaggio’s largest painting, The Beheading of John the Baptist. The detail is exquisite, despite the grisly subject matter.
Gaze in awe at the lavish interiors of the Grand Master’s Palace, formerly the home of the Grand Masters of the Knights of St. John and later, the seat of the Maltese Parliament. Today, it’s the residence of the president, but you can visit the splendid State Apartments, decorated with friezes and trompe l’oeil paintings depicting scenes from history. Don’t miss the astonishing Armoury, packed with priceless, centuries-old suits of armor and historic weapons.
Get a glimpse into Malta’s proud and complex military history at this fascinating museum. It’s housed in Fort St. Elmo and was built by the Knights of St. John in 1552 to protect the Grand Harbour. Impressive audio-visual displays guide you through the centuries, from the Great Siege of 1565 to the bombardment of the island in WWII. You’ll see one of just three airplanes that initially defended Malta against the German bombardment, and the George Cross, awarded in 1942 to the whole population for bravery.
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From the water, you’ll get an immediate sense of the sheer might of Valletta’s towering fortifications, hewn from local limestone and glowing pale gold in the sunshine. Cruise through both the city’s harbors, Marsamxett and the Grand Harbour, divided by the skinny peninsula on which Valletta itself lies. Gaze up at the Three Cities, fortified towns clinging to fingers of land across the water from Valletta, as you look for the brightly colored dghajsa taxi-boats buzzing back and forth.
Malta’s sleepy little sister is another world from the buzz and architectural drama of Valletta. The scenic ferry ride takes just 30 minutes, bringing you to an island that’s greener, quieter, and just as historically significant; the Ġgantija Temples here date back to 3200 B.C. Explore the complex, then wander around Victoria, also known as Rabat. The enchanting capital, dominated by the Cittadella, is another legacy of the Knights of St. John, with far-reaching views from the ancient ramparts.
Ancient Mdina, basking on a hilltop in the center of the island, dates back more than 4,000 years. The version of the walled city you see today is 17th-century Baroque architecture that’s been built over older medieval structures. The name, which means “town,” comes from the Arabs who inhabited the island in the 9th century. Unravel layers of history in the silent lanes, visiting St. Paul’s Cathedral, the 13th-century Palazzo Falson, and cobblestone squares bathed in sunlight.
Malta’s cuisine has strong Italian influences, given its proximity to Sicily, as well as hints of Arabic. The clear, deep waters around the islands mean that seafood is abundant. Try aljotta, a traditional fish soup with a base of tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves, and oregano, usually featuring lampuki, or mahi-mahi. Rabbit is the national meat, served stewed in red wine or fried in garlic. Pasta appears on most menus, and you won’t run out of places to enjoy pizza.
Locals snack on pastizzi, filo pastry parcels stuffed with peas and cheese, or sometimes meat. Look out for wood-fired breads still warm from the oven, crispy on the outside and soft in the middle, flavored with olives, capers, and anchovies. Or if you’re really hungry, pick up timpana, a pie filled with macaroni, beef, pork, cheese, tomato, onion, and egg.
Wine has been produced here since the time of the Phoenicians. They’re rarely exported, so your visit is the ideal time to try them. On a hot day, wash down your timpana with an ice-cold Cisk, Malta’s own lager.
Malta’s human history dates back more than 8,000 years to the time of the earliest hunter-gatherers who lived on the island. You can visit some of the oldest free-standing temples in the world here, including Hagar Qim, which dates back to 3600 BC, predating both the Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge. The island and its sisters, Gozo and Comino, lie at a strategic crossroads of the Mediterranean and, as such, have been coveted and inhabited by the Phoenicians, the Romans, and the Knights of St. John, not to mention the Ottomans, the French, and the British.
It’s arguably the Knights of St. John, a powerful religious and military order, who made the greatest impression on the island. Arriving in 1530, they laid out the grid plan for Valletta, building the city’s dramatic fortifications and the grand palaces you see today. They fought off the Ottomans in 1565 and remained on Malta until they were exiled by Napoleon in 1798. Malta became part of the British Empire in 1814. Famously, this tiny island bravely resisted the Axis powers in World War II, despite many of its cities being reduced to rubble.
Malta’s culture today reflects these historical influences. The language originates from Arabic, although English is widely spoken. There are red phone boxes—the legacy of the British—dotted around Valletta. The Maltese flag proudly bears the George Cross, awarded to the people of Malta for their heroism during WWII. Malta is a member of the European Union, but remains part of the Commonwealth.
Ships dock at the base of the old city walls, in the heart of the Grand Harbour. If you have a chance, be on deck for the sail-in, as this is one of the most beautiful approaches to port in the world, the whole city glowing in the sunlight around you. From here, it’s a swift elevator ride and an easy walk to the Upper Barrakka Gardens for sweeping views.
Right next to the port is the restored Valletta Waterfront, a long row of former warehouses dating back to the 18th century, now housing shops, bars, and restaurants. This is as much a destination for locals as it is for cruise ship passengers, so factor in a drink or snack here during your time in the city. There’s a taxi booking office as well as bike rental; an e-bike is recommended to get up those hills.
Malta and Gozo have good bus transportation, with buses operating all over both islands from the main bus stations in Valletta and Victoria, Gozo’s capital. There are also vintage buses on Malta that take you to the main attractions, and are a fun way to see the island. Ferries buzz back and forth across the Grand Harbour, while dgħajsa—the traditional, hand-rowed water taxis that date back to the 17th century—are a colorful and authentic way to gaze up at the city walls from the water. Ferries run regularly between Ċirkewwa on Malta and Mġarr Harbour on Gozo, with a crossing time of 30 minutes.
You could, of course, explore by taxi; in addition to the official taxis, both Bolt and Uber operate in Valletta. To see the ancient city itself, walking the narrow alleys is by far the best option.
Malta produces plenty of beautiful crafts that make great souvenirs. You’ll find lacework everywhere, all locally made, as well as silver filigree jewelry. Look for hand-blown glass from Mdina and local ceramics. If you go to Gozo, you’ll see hand-knitted sweaters for sale. In Valletta, meanwhile, look for hand-crafted door knockers in the style of those you’ll see on the doors of the city’s grand mansions.
For edible souvenirs, check out cheeses from Gozo and jam made from the prickly pear cacti that grow all over the island. Do you have a sweet tooth? Maltese nougat, or qubbajt, is delicious.
The currency in Malta is the euro. Credit cards are widely accepted, and there are ATMs in Valletta and other towns. This is not a big tipping culture, but 5-10% is customary in restaurants for good service, unless service is already included. You can round up the fare for taxi drivers for good service.
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