Insider’s Guide to Heidelberg

Visit Heidelberg, and you’ll find a city that at once feels familiar, even if you’ve never been to Germany before. Wedged between wooded hills and the calm sweep of the Neckar River, the city looks like a movie setting: a hilltop castle presiding over an Old Town, its cobbled streets adorned with ornate church towers and elegant townhouses.

Heidelberg is compact enough to explore on foot in a single day, but there are enough layers to reward those looking for something a little extra. Poke your head down a side alley, find a more remote square, linger in one of the many cafés, or head up the hill for even better views.

Add in a long and storied history, plus a modern college-town buzz thanks to its status as the seat of Germany’s oldest university, and it’s not hard to see why Heidelberg is such a popular place for visitors.

Why Visit Heidelberg

Heidelberg

If you’re looking for reasons to visit Heidelberg, they are plentiful, but here are just some of the highlights. On the one hand, it’s one of those places that looks almost too perfectly “old Europe.” Think: a red sandstone castle perched on a wooded hill, church spires rising from beyond terracotta roofs, and the Neckar River looping gently through the city.

On the other hand, this is one of Germany’s foremost university towns, home to the oldest tertiary education establishment in the country. So you get the cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, lively squares, and traditional cafés of the Altstadt—Old Town—on one side. Then on the other there are hip bookshops, trendy wine bars, booming microbreweries, and a lively music scene.

Sights are many, and they’re all big hitters: the Baroque Old Town, Heidelberg Castle, the Alte Brücke, or Old Bridge, and the Philosophenweg hillside path are just some of them. Visit in December, and you can add to those the Christmas markets, some of the most atmospheric and traditional in Germany.

History & Culture

Heidelberg

While Heidelberg is far from the largest of German cities, its history far belies its size. In fact, some of the earliest evidence of human history in Europe was discovered in the nearby village of Mauer in 1907. For it was then that the jawbone of “Heidelberg Man” was found; his remains are thought to be around 600,000 years old.

Fast forward to 1196, and the city we know today began to form around Heidelberg Castle. It went on to become the capital of the Palatinate, a small but influential state within the Holy Roman Empire. That power can be seen in the late Gothic and Renaissance elements of the castle as it towers above the city.

Altstadt

Down in the Altstadt, the past feels more lived in than grand. Baroque façades line the main streets and squares, many of them rebuilt over the years following a series of conflicts and adverse weather in the 17th century.

Culture here is shaped by ideas as well as power. Founded in 1386, Heidelberg University is the oldest in Germany, giving the city an intellectual pull that remains to this day, evidenced by the huge student population. By the 19th century, the city’s beguiling mix of ruins, riverside setting, and scholarly life saw it become a poster child for German Romanticism. Onto this rich past, modern Heidelberg layers on festivals, theater, live music, and contemporary art galleries—all largely fueled by its status as a college town.

Wildlife & Nature

Philosophenweg

When it comes to nature, Heidelberg’s setting does some pretty heavy lifting thanks to the city stretching along the Neckar, a major tributary of the Rhine. On one side, the river flows steadily, while on the other, steep, wooded hills hem the city in, meaning you’re never too far from a wide-open view or patch of green.

Over on the north bank is the Philosophenweg, or Philosophers’ Walk, a path that threads along the hillside through a series of gardens and terraces, offering some of the best views of the German castle and Old Town.

Heidelberger Bergbahn

To get deeper into nature, drive, hike, or take the Heidelberger Bergbahn funicular to the Königstuhl. The “King’s Seat” hill that rises above the city offers waymarked trails that lead through forests and open up excellent valley views. Back by the river, the Neckarwiese Riverfront Park offers a softer kind of nature, perfect for families, thanks to its long lawns and picnic areas framed by views of the Altstadt.

Tips for Visiting Heidelberg

Altstadt

As you’d expect in Germany, things tend to work with calm efficiency here, so you shouldn’t anticipate too many problems with a visit to Heidelberg. The city is simply made for walking, so a comfy pair of walking shoes will be your best friend. If they’re waterproof, even better.

Many streets in the Altstadt are cobbled, and all of the best viewpoints are uphill, so comfy really does mean comfy. Taking on the castle, Philosophenweg, or Königstuhl means you’ll likely be exposed to breezes, and so layers are important too.

In busy periods, it’s worth checking opening times and booking ahead for the headline sights like Heidelberg Castle, especially if you want a specific time slot for the funicular or entry to a museum. In December, it can be really busy, so it pays to allow extra time to navigate the Christmas markets. That way, you can enjoy the atmosphere rather than rushing between stalls.

Cash and cards are both widely accepted, but some smaller cafés and stands on the markets may still be cash-only, so it’s handy to have a little on you as you explore.

Things to Do & Attractions

Marvel at Heidelberg Castle

Heidelberg Castle

When you visit Heidelberg, the city’s undisputed showstopper is Heidelberger Schloss, or Heidelberg Castle—one of the best castles on the Rhine. First mentioned in the 13th century, it grew from a medieval fortress into the official residence of the prince-electors of the Palatinate.

These lords of the manor added one grand wing after another as their power expanded, which is why you get a real mix of styles, with Gothic structures sitting next to ornate Renaissance façades.

Heidelberg Castle

The setting is as striking as the castle itself. Set on the northern slope of Königstuhl, some 260 feet above the town, the terraces and gardens were a major draw for visiting dignitaries, although much of that came to an end in the 17th century when wars and lightning strikes left large parts of the castle in ruins.

Step inside the surviving buildings to see the Great Barrel, a vast wine cask that underlines just how lavish court life could be. There’s also the German Pharmacy Museum, which uses historic equipment and apothecary jars to trace the development of medicine.

Stroll Along Hauptstrasse

Hauptstrasse

The best way to get to know the Altstadt is to take a wander down Hauptstrasse, the mile-long central street that runs from Bismarckplatz in the west to Karlstor in the east.

Pedestrian-only and running parallel to the Neckar, it has been a main route since medieval times and has been updated along the way. This means that on your stroll, you’ll pass small churches, the town hall, and Baroque buildings, as well as fashion chains, bakeries, and ice cream parlors. Make sure to step off into some of the side alleys and smaller courtyards, and check out the Old Town’s key squares: Marktplatz, Universitätsplatz, and Kornmarkt.

Walk Across the Alte Brücke

Alte Brücke

The Alte Brücke, or Old Bridge, which spans the Neckar between the Altstadt and the leafy northern bank, is one of the best ways to see Heidelberg.

It’s a stone arch crossing, and the version you see today dates from the late 18th century, when it replaced a series of earlier wooden bridges. Start from the Old Town side and walk through the twin-towered gate, which once formed part of the city’s fortifications. From here, the views open up quickly: look back for classic postcard shots of the castle and hillside, then pause midway to watch boats and rowers passing underneath.

Ride the Heidelberger Bergbahn

Heidelberger Bergbahn

Swap cobbled streets for big views in just a few minutes by jumping on the Heidelberger Bergbahn, the funicular railway that links Kornmarkt in the Old Town with the steep slope of the Königstuhl, stopping first at Heidelberg Castle.

The lower part uses more modern cars but follows the original route, while the upper part has some cars that date from 1907. Above the castle, the line becomes much steeper until you reach the summit station, some 1,800 feet above sea level. From the top, on a clear day, you can see far beyond Heidelberg into the Rhine plain, with walking trails and viewpoints that make it easy to spend a lot of time here.

Step Inside the Church of the Holy Spirit

Church of the Holy Spirit

Follow Hauptstrasse for long enough, and you’ll more than likely find yourself on the main Marktplatz square, where this late-Gothic landmark stands.

Built over about 200 years from the late 14th century, the church has been at the heart of the city’s religious life for centuries. It once served as the burial place for the prince-electors of the Palatinate, and for a long time was divided so that Protestants and Catholics could worship under the same roof. Step inside today to take in the tall, bright nave, simple stone pillars, and colored light filtering through the windows.

Discover Germany’s Oldest University

Heidelberg University

Heidelberg is home to Germany’s oldest university, founded in 1386, and you can still feel that sense of history around its central Old Town campus. Make sure to visit the impressive wood-paneled Alte Aula, or Great Hall, lined with portraits of academics, and step into the Studentenkarzer, or student prison. Here, the unruly were once confined for pranks and minor offenses. Inside, the walls are covered in graffiti and murals, some more than a century old.

Read: Best Places to Visit in Germany

Enjoy the Sparkle of Heidelberg’s Christmas Markets

Heidelberg Christmas Market

In the run-up to Christmas, Heidelberg’s Old Town turns into a chain of glowing markets. Stalls and fairy lights line the streets on and around Marktplatz, Bismarckplatz, Universitätsplatz, and Kornmarkt. You’ll find everything you’d expect from a German Christmas market: handmade decorations, wooden toys, and candles, while food stands serve sausages, crêpes, and gingerbread, plus glühwein and hot chocolate.

Head over to Karlsplatz, where you can ice skate with the castle as a backdrop. Unlike the markets, which tend to wind down after Christmas Eve, you can still get your skates on into mid-January.

Food & Drink

Bratwurst with sauerkraut

The castle and university are the main reasons to visit Heidelberg, but the city offers plenty of crowd-pleasing comfort food, too.

Old Town taverns serve up a greatest hits version of German cuisine: plates of bratwurst with sauerkraut, schnitzel, roast pork with crispy crackling, and generous helpings of potatoes in just about every way possible.

The surrounding region is wine country, so you can wash it all down with a nice local Riesling or Pinot variety. Along Hauptstrasse and around the main squares, you’ll find bakeries and coffee houses where you can pause over a slice of cake or a flaky pastry. Apple strudel and Black Forest-style gateau often make an appearance, too.

Best Time to Visit

Heidelberg

You can visit Heidelberg at any time of year and have a great time, although your experience will change with the seasons. Spring and fall are sweet spots for milder temperatures and fewer crowds, while summer is the most popular time to visit. Days are long and warm, ideal for exploring, and while it does get busier over the summer, there are fewer students in town, so that balances things out a little.

In winter, Heidelberg transforms into the classic German fairy-tale town. The imposing castle is illuminated, Old Town squares are abuzz, and the Christmas markets are as traditional as they come.

FAQs

Heidelberg

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