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Author's Note

I first visited Vienna in my early 20s, and it’s been one of my favorite Central European cities ever since—especially in winter, when it takes on a fairytale shimmer. I love the number of things to do that feel unique to the season, like skating around Rathausplatz, soaking in Therme Wien hot baths, and sipping a hot chocolate that’s never rushed. If there’s a city that’s turned winter into an art form, it’s definitely Vienna.

Vienna in winter feels purpose-built for the season. In fact, those cold winter days feel as though they suit the Austrian capital more than any other city in Europe.

As the days get shorter and the mercury drops further, Vienna comes alive while other cities appear to retreat into hibernation. As such, visitors are spoiled for things to see and do that feel purposefully aligned to the season.

Step into gilded museums and iconic opera houses layered with history. Take a break from the cold in one of the ornate coffee houses. Enjoy a cultural calendar packed with tours and matinee performances.

Outside, there are palace gardens, cozy Christmas markets that sparkle through the day, ice rinks curling around City Hall, and parks that look stunning under a sugar-dusting of frost. Check out the city’s Ferris Wheel for iconic views, before heading to historic spas to warm back up.

Winter Weather

Wiener Eistraum ice skating rink at Rathausplatz Vienna in winter

Wiener Eistraum, Rathausplatz

When it comes to the weather in Vienna in winter, the first thing to do is to address the common misconception that it will be a snowy wonderland. While it’s true that the city does get the occasional dusting, it’s certainly not a defining feature of a winter visit.

Instead, you should expect crisp and cold days with temperatures ranging from just below freezing (around 30°F) to the low-to-mid 40s.

December is a little warmer, with January and February typically the coldest months. Early mornings can be particularly chilly, then temperatures creep up before dropping again after 3 pm.

On the wider avenues and around the Danube and the Danube Canal, it can feel a little colder due to the wind-chill factor. A bigger limiting factor during a winter visit is the limited daylight.

Lit festive stalls at Altwiener Christkindlmarkt in Vienna

Altwiener Christkindlmarkt

As December draws near, the days get much shorter. Around the solstice (December 21), there are only about eight hours of usable daylight.

Thankfully, the city rises to the occasion, casting the gloom to one side with ease. Street lighting creates a warm glow, shop windows twinkle away, and Vienna’s Christmas markets and ice rinks shimmer through the day.

Author's Note

I’ve been surprised a few times by how quickly the weather can change here, as temperature swings are common. You might get a bracing cold snap in the morning and a mild, wet thaw later thanks to air masses rolling in from the Alps and the Pannonian Plain. Plan your day to be flexible. If weather permits, get any outdoor sights out of the way early on while it’s still light, then head to museums, the opera, and other indoor attractions in the afternoon. Spend a few minutes planning your itinerary before you head out for the day, and note nearby places you can stop into. Coffee shops and department stores are dotted around the city center, so you’re never short of refuge if needed.

Dressing for the Cold

Winter in Vienna: woman in warm coat checking a map

Vienna

They say there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing—and if you take that approach, you’ll be fine in Vienna in winter.

Layers will be your friend. Base layers, warmer mid-layers, and a wind/waterproof shell will all be handy. Take a big waterproof coat for colder days.

Pack thick socks, comfy walking shoes (there can be a lot of walking here), a hat, and gloves. Err on the side of smart-casual/business casual when it comes to dress, as you’re unlikely to need anything too formal. Even at the Vienna State Opera, you can get away with smart jeans and a shirt for men, and a casual dress or pants for women.

Winter City of Culture

Grand historic facade of Vienna’s State Opera House

Vienna State Opera

Winter in Vienna is peak culture season, and if you can’t find tickets to evening performances—or are just visiting for the day—you can still soak it all up. The Vienna State Opera opens its doors for guided daytime tours that offer a behind-the-scenes peek, and there are winter matinee performances, too.

The nearby Volksoper also offers occasional daytime matinees, while the city’s iconic concert halls are destinations in their own right. The Musikverein (home of the New Year’s Concert) offers building tours, and the Wiener Konzerthaus hosts matinee performances.

At the interactive Haus der Musik, you can “conduct” a virtual orchestra and explore how sound works—a great choice if the weather sends you scurrying indoors for the entire day.

Historic stables of the Spanish Riding School with horses

Spanish Riding School stables

There’s also the famed Spanish Riding School, home to the magnificent Lipizzaner horses. See them train under the chandeliers of the Baroque Winter Riding School at Hofburg Palace, and tour the stables and tack rooms.

Author's Note

All the big performance venues have ample cloakroom space. A quick visit to the restroom can transform you from walking warrior to chic culture vulture in minutes. Then use the cloakroom facilities to store your stuff while you enjoy the show.

Coffeehouse Culture

Traditional Viennese coffee Melange with crema on top

Melange

Nothing says winter in Vienna quite like spending time in one of the city’s elegant coffeehouses. This isn’t the kind of grab-and-go culture you get at home, with your name hastily scrawled across a takeout cup.

In Vienna, the coffee experience is sophisticated. Expect marble tables, bentwood chairs, brass coat hooks, and waiters in black waistcoats.

Thaw out, read, write a postcard home, and watch the city through the steamy windows. Melange (think cappuccino’s Viennese cousin), Einspänner (strong coffee with whipped cream), Verlängerter (espresso plus hot water), Großer Brauner (with milk), and Kleiner Schwarzer (straight shot) are the main caffeinated drinks you’ll find.

Served slice of Sachertorte with glossy chocolate topping

Sachertorte

Even if you don’t like coffee, come for the excellent hot chocolate or the Austrian desserts that are even better. Sachertorte (apricot layer, chocolate glaze) is a must-eat, while Apfelstrudel (classic apple pastry) and Topfenstrudel (with quark/curd cheese) also make superb winter fuel.

Author's Note

There are excellent coffeehouses around the city, but these are some of my personal favorites for the classic café experience: The Neo-Gothic Café Central, Café Demel (dating from 1786), and Café Landtmann (a popular meeting spot for actors, politicians, and journalists—and Sigmund Freud’s regular hangout).

Christmas Markets

Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz Vienna in winter

Christkindlmarkt, Rathausplatz

For the ultimate winter-in-Vienna experience, visit from the end of November to the end of December and head straight to the Christmas markets—the city is packed with them.

If there’s one to rule them all, it’s the Christkindlmarkt on Rathausplatz (the square in front of City Hall) with its huge tree, lovely stalls, and nearby ice skating.

Then there’s the courtyard market at the elegant Schönbrunn Palace (the summer residence of the Habsburg rulers), the artisan Spittelberg, plus Stephansplatz with its views of the cathedral. None of them will disappoint.

Mulled wine served in festive sock-style holiday mug

Glühwein

Things to shop for include handicrafts of glass, ceramics, woodwork, and felt; tree decorations to take home; woolens; and a whole range of fabulous Viennese food and drink.

Three dishes to try include Würstel sausages, Käsekrainer (also a sausage but with chunks of cheese inside), and Lebkuchen, the city’s iconic gingerbread. Wash it all down with a glass of steaming glühwein (mulled wine) or hot chocolate.

Author's Note

When you buy a drink, the first one may have an extra charge—don’t worry, you’re not being ripped off. The markets operate a mug deposit (“Pfand”) system, where you pay a few euros extra and get them back when you return the mug. Want to keep the mug as a souvenir? Simply take it with you and lose the deposit.

Palaces & Grand Museums

Tourist couple posing inside the Great Gallery at Schönbrunn Palace

Great Gallery, Schönbrunn Palace

When the cold starts to bite, make a beeline for the magnificent palaces and museums of Vienna. They are seemingly built for winter with their warm interiors, huge cloakrooms, and enough gilt, marble, and masterpieces to make you forget the cold.

Schönbrunn Palace—the Habsburgs’ former summer residence—is studded with ballrooms, stuccoed salons, and the famed Great Gallery. The grounds are also worth touring if you can stand the cold.

Exterior view of Hofburg Palace in Vienna with horse-drawn carriage

Hofburg Palace

Back in the center, the Hofburg complex offers another slice of Habsburg history, with its Imperial Apartments, Sisi Museum, and Imperial Silver Collection.

Nearby, there’s the Kunsthistorisches Museum—a showstopper for art and history lovers—and the Naturhistorisches Museum, with its dinosaur skeletons, meteorites, and curiosities. The latter is a great choice for those with families.

For Austrian modernism, the two Belvedere palaces have some fabulous Baroque highlights and are also home to one of the city’s most iconic pieces of art, Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss.

Warming Spas & Wellness

Amalienbad indoor pool with contemporary design elements

Amalienbad Photo by Schwimmschule Steiner on Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0

When the mercury dips in Vienna in winter, the city’s spa scene provides a perfect antidote to the biting cold.

Therme Wien, south of the city in the Oberlaa district, is the place to go. Get there on the U1 subway line to Oberlaa station for warm relaxation pools, massage jets, quiet zones with loungers, and a separate Sauna World experience with multiple saunas and steam rooms.

Elsewhere, the city’s indoor baths are winter gems. Amalienbad in the Favoriten district is famed for its soaring 1920s Art Deco main bathing hall. Jörgerbad, just northwest of the city center, is another historic option with swimming, saunas, and massage.

Get Your Skates On

Outdoor ice skating at Rathausplatz Vienna in winter

Rathausplatz

Few things are more romantic during winter in Vienna than ice skating. Topping the list for sheer fairytale magic is the Wiener Eistraum on Rathausplatz, which transforms the plaza and some surrounding paths into rinks and ice trails.

It typically opens in November, ahead of the Christmas markets, and stays long after they close; you can usually skate into early March.

The Vienna Ice Skating Club (Wiener Eislauf-Verein) at Heumarkt is one of the oldest skating clubs in Europe. Its seasonal rink is located next to the Konzerthaus concert hall just outside the city center and is great for leisurely laps.

On very rare occasions, it can be cold enough for the Old Danube (Alte Donau)—an oxbow off the Danube—to freeze over, and you may see locals donning their skates and having fun on the ice.

This is done at their own risk and should only be attempted when authorities declare conditions safe. As such, it’s best left to the Viennese—although it’s fun to head down and watch.

Winter Walks & Easy Viewpoints

Nighttime view of Vienna Old Town with festive holiday lighting

Old Town

When the weather is crisp, cold, and dry, walking around Vienna in winter is a great way to discover the city. Start with a stroll around Vienna’s Old Town along the Ringstraße, the city’s beautiful central boulevard that is home to many of the main sights and conveniently laid out in a loop.

Dip in and out of the Burggarten and Volksgarten parks, and take in the Rathauspark with its ice rink, seasonal Christmas market, and photo-friendly façades.

For riverside views, there’s also a nice walking stretch along the Danube Canal between Schwedenplatz and Urania. It has broad, easy paths, bridges for great pictures of the skyline, and some nice cafés.

View from Wiener Riesenrad Ferris wheel in Vienna, Austria

Wiener Riesenrad

A third option is the car-free Hauptallee in Prater, a giant park and entertainment zone. There’s an amusement park here, and if you want to tick off a city icon, make a stop to ride the Giant Ferris Wheel (Wiener Riesenrad). It’s been turning since 1897 and offers incredible views over the city.

FAQs

Is Vienna worth visiting in winter?

Wiener Eistraum ice skating rink at Rathausplatz Vienna in winter

Wiener Eistraum, Rathausplatz

A resounding yes. In fact, Vienna is totally suited to winter. There’s great culture, atmospheric coffeehouses, grand palaces and museums to explore, plus seasonal treats such as Austrian Christmas markets and ice-skating rinks.

How cold is Vienna in December?

Scenic street view of Old Town Vienna in winter

Old Town

It’s chilly rather than arctic. You’ll get the occasional snowfall, but it’s mainly crisp and cold with lows just below freezing and highs in the 40s. Around the river and on the wider boulevards, it can feel colder thanks to the wind chill.

What should I pack?

Festival stall selling souvenirs at Christmas market in Europe

Christmas market in Vienna

Layers are a must, as is a wind/waterproof shell and, potentially, your big coat. Throw in a hat, gloves, scarf, thick socks, and comfy walking shoes with good grip. A compact umbrella can help if there’s rain or sleet.

What are the best places to visit in Vienna in winter?

Interior view of Schönbrunn Palace with tourists

Schönbrunn Palace

The whole city is a joy, but if you want a must-see list, make sure to tick off the following places that Vienna is famous for: Schönbrunn Palace for imperial history, the Vienna State Opera for culture, the Spanish Riding School to be amazed by the horses, skating at Rathausplatz, and the Giant Ferris Wheel.

Throw in a Christmas market and one of the iconic coffeehouses, and you can comfortably say you’ve seen the icons.

Are Christmas markets open all winter in Vienna?

Holiday market stall selling glass ornaments near Schönbrunn Palace

Christmas market in Vienna

No. Most markets run from late November until just before Christmas. After that, they wind down. Winter fun continues, though, mainly through the city’s ice skating rinks.

St. Michael Square Vienna with horse-drawn carriages and historic buildings

Vienna

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