Vienna’s Old Town is a majestic marvel. It’s a vibrant open-air museum of Austria’s past imperial pomp, a stately maze of squares and cobbled lanes slipping between palatial buildings. Known as the Innere Stadt, or “inner city”, its extent is sketched by the Ringstrasse—a broad avenue that follows the footprint of the old city walls.
Vienna regularly tops international lists of “most livable cities” and as you explore the Innere Stadt, you’ll pass talented violin buskers, a reminder that this is the city of Mozart and Schubert, be passed by jingling trams, and wander through hushed, high-ceilinged royal apartments.
Attractions
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Stephansdom, which translates as St. Stephen’s Cathedral, anchors the historic center of the Old Town, Vienna. Its gold-and-gray striped roof, the chevrons like a great ecclesiastical radio trying to dial into the divine, are visible from all across the city.
This 12th-century immensity with its 446ft South Tower is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe. Its bulk is awe-inspiring, but it’s the details that will capture you, such as the entangled amphibians carved into the pulpit’s handrail, or the finely executed 14th-century stained glass in the cathedral’s south choir.
View from St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Ascend to the top of the South Tower—only 343 steps, or take the elevator—and you’re rewarded with glorious views over the Innere Stadt as well as a close-up of the heavyweight Pummerin Bell, Austria’s largest.
Hofburg Palace
Hofburg Palace
The Hofburg Palace was the power base for the Habsburgs for over 600 years. Its dazzling grounds were added to by each new ruler that inherited whatever empire this impressively tenacious family was ruling at the time. Today, it acts as a time capsule of imperial life.
There’s a Viennese museum dedicated to the remarkable Empress Elisabeth, or “Sisi” as she was affectionately known. You can walk through the restored apartments in which Sisi and her husband, Emperor Franz Joseph I, had their home. Afterward, inspect the polish on the Imperial silverware or be dazzled by the crown jewels.
Hofburg Palace Photo by young shanahan on Flickr, licensed under CC BY 2.0
There’s enough in the Hofburg Palace to fill your entire visit to Vienna, so pace yourself. If you need a breather—as Sisi often did—head outside to the manicured Volksgarten for a stroll. The garden is best seen in spring for its maximalist display of roses.
State Opera House
State Opera House
Part of the long history of people giving disparaging nicknames to new and unusual architecture, the Wiener Staatsoper was originally nicknamed “the stone turtle” when its neoclassical hauteur was unveiled to a welter of mid-19th-century misgivings.
Whether the elegant arches, bevy of busts, and ballooning verdigris roof tickle your fancy or not, there’s no debating its acoustics or the pedigree of those who have performed here—think Gustav Mahler and the more recent Herbert von Karajan.
Tea Salon Photo by C.Stadler/Bwag on Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0
The Staatsoper used to have an in-house museum, but that’s been absorbed into the Hofburg’s Theater Museum. However, it’s possible to learn about its illustrious history with a 40-minute guided tour. You’ll take in the silky-walled Tea Salon, as well as the opera-themed paintings and busts of famous composers in the Schwind Foyer.
MuseumsQuartier
MuseumsQuartier
Just across the road from the Innere Stadt proper, the MuseumsQuartier, set in the former imperial stables, is the hub of contemporary culture in Vienna’s historic district.
The hay and the imperial horse grooms have been supplanted by over 100,000 square feet of exhibition space spread over numerous venues. Amid the 19th-century gilt and pomp, the MuseumsQuartier is a refreshing splash of modern style with exhibitions on everything from youth culture to fine art.
Architekturzentrum Photo by MOs810 on Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0
Highlights include the Leopold Museum, with a focus on Austrian modernism, not to mention a fabulous panoramic terrace and cafe, MQ Libelle; MUMOK, the museum of modern art, and the Architekturzentrum, Austria’s national museum of architecture.
If this density of art and culture seems overwhelming, there’s a guided overview of the MuseumsQuartier every Saturday at 3 p.m.
Things to Do
Tour the Ringstrasse
Ringstrasse
Encircling Vienna’s Old Town, the three-mile-long Ringstrasse is a bracket-shaped boulevard that bends close to numerous architectural badges of imperial pride, as well as several lovely parks.
It takes around three hours to walk its length. Doing so will be a true history walk, following the footprint of the former 13th-century defensive walls. You’ll see epic buildings such as the Greek Revival parliament with its Athena fountain, and the neo-Gothic town hall, or Rathaus.
Austrian Parliament
Fuel up at food stalls—pretzels or palatschinken with Nutella work well—or stop into antique Café Schwarzenberg, where you can expect to pay a tourist premium on its apfelstrudel. If it’s too busy, the similarly haughty Café Imperial Wien awaits with its white linen tablecloths across the street.
Alternatively, tram-hop your way around the Ringstrasse’s various sections. Evening is probably the best time to experience the Ringstrasse, with the lights on the grand facades, statues, and fountains supplying added drama.
See the Spanish Riding School
Spanish Riding School
After visiting the Imperial Apartments in the Hofburg Palace and coveting the wooden staircases in the State Hall library, it’s time to commune with the Habsburgs in a more dynamic fashion—through the Spanish Riding School.
The name of the Spanish Riding School is a confusion that’s quickly cleared up: the name derives from the elegant white horses or Lipizzaner breed that were originally imported from Spain. Now, for nearly five centuries, these equine hot-steppers, trained in the “High School” tradition, perform classical dressage performances known as the “Ballet of the White Stallions.”
These remarkable performances take place only on select weekends, so if your timing doesn’t line up, there are other ways to engage with the prancing equines. Head over in the morning for a training session, ideally booked during the quieter mid-week sessions, or select a “back-stage” tour of the stables.
Visit the Judenplatz & Holocaust Memorial
Judenplatz
The Judenplatz in Vienna’s Old Town is a flagstone square surrounded by narrow townhouses and broad-chested administrative buildings. The Austrian Supreme Administrative Court inhabits one of the latter.
Before it became a center for national bureaucracy, this used to be the epicenter of Jewish life in medieval Vienna. Around the corner from the larger Am Hof, the Judenplatz features a bronze of the Enlightenment poet, Gotthold Lessing, who is eternally contemplating the austere power of artist Rachel Whiteread’s Holocaust Memorial opposite.
Holocaust Memorial
The Holocaust Memorial is a concrete-and-steel block that has the appearance of a library of volumes with their spines turned inward. Called the “Nameless Library”, the memorial has an added layer of poignancy; it sits above the remains of a synagogue that was destroyed during a pogrom in the 15th century.
Restaurants
Griechenbeisl
Griechenbeisl Photo by Martin Furtschegger on Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY 3.0
Atmospheric Griechenbeisl is the city’s oldest inn, with a history that dates back to 1447. Everyone from Mark Twain to Mozart has walked its dark wood floors thinking hungrily of their forthcoming tafelspritz, slowly simmered beef in a rich gravy that’s served with fried potatoes.
Close to St. Stephen’s Gothic flanks, this ivy-covered classic is a convenient stop and historic experience in one.
Gasthaus Pöschl
Schnitzel
Gasthaus Pöschl is an ever-popular Austrian bistro or “beisl.” Within its wood-paneled walls, you’ll encounter the down-to-earth hospitality typical of a beisl, as well as a menu of authentic Viennese cuisine. It’s a local favorite so if you’re keen to pair one of its crisp, golden Schnitzels with a malty lunchtime beer, you’ll need to book ahead.
Würstelstand am Hohen Markt
Würstelstand am Hohen Markt
If you’re eating on the move, then a visit to the Würstelstand am Hohen Markt is highly recommended. The sausages arrive either sliced upon a paper plate or stashed in a bun, with a side of condiments such as mustard, horseradish, or sauerkraut. The Käsekrainer is particularly popular, a sausage with molten Emmental cheese oozing from within.
Lamée Rooftop
Lamée Rooftop
A summer favorite, Lamée Rooftop is a go-to for sunset cocktails in the heart of Vienna’s Old Town. It’s a perfect place for a preprandial drink rather than a hearty pork knuckle, although light bites are available. Rub shoulders with the city’s fashionistas while drinking in the cinematic views of the verdigris domes and spires that surround you.
Travel Tips
St. Stephen’s Cathedral
The cobbled lanes, regal squares, and cake-filled coffee houses of Vienna’s Old Town are best explored on foot and in comfortable shoes. There’s no wrong time to visit, as even the dark days of winter bring the sparkle and magic of Christmas, with its street stalls, twinkling lights, and crisp, würstel-scented breezes.
Spring and early fall are best for shorter lines, while summer is a wonderful, if busy exhibition of the Viennese art of outdoor living. Join the locals for open-air concerts at the Rathausplatz, where picnics are laid out and glasses of crisp Grüner Veltliner are clinked.
Temperatures can shift, so pack layers, whatever the season. You won’t go short of things to see in the Innere Stadt, however, should you wish to see beyond Vienna’s imperial face, cross the Schwedenbrücke to the Donaukanal. This riverfront strip of beach bars, street art, and boho spirit is a reflection of modern Vienna, only a short walk away.
FAQs
Is Vienna’s Old Town worth visiting?
Hofburg Palace courtyard
The thriving heart of Vienna, the Old Town is one of Europe’s most well-preserved historic centers, full of imperious architecture and Gothic charm. Despite its draw as a center for tourism, it’s still very much a living part of the city. The Innere Stadt, with its sophisticated wine bars and Hofburg courtyards, is the must-see part of Vienna.
What is Vienna’s Old Town known for?
Ringstrasse
It’s a grand, concentrated shot of what makes the Austrian capital what it is. The Hofburg Palace dominates, with all its echoes of the glorious unwieldiness of the Austro-Hungarian empire. While walking the various sections of the Ringstrasse, you’ll encounter modern elements that speak to Vienna’s many facets as a city.
The café culture Vienna is known for is alive and well here, too; a Grand Marnier-laced “Maria Theresa” coffee at Café Mozart is a must. The Innere Stadt is also home to the State Opera House.
What are the must-see historical sites?
Kunsthistorisches Museum
Vienna’s Old Town is densely concentrated with historic and cultural edifices that demand your notice. St. Stephen’s Cathedral is a must—its Gothic grandeur has been a symbol of Vienna for nearly 1,000 years. The Sisi Museum, meanwhile, helps to bring the palace’s elevated architecture down to the mortal plane.
Beyond that, it all depends on time and inclination. Go see the final resting place of Habsburg rulers at the Capuchin Crypt; admire the imperial art collection with its Bruegels in the Kunsthistorisches Museum; and contemplate the striking Holocaust Memorial.
How much time do you need to explore?
Michaelerplatz
In a rush, this area can be experienced in a half-day tour; however, with so much to see, the many layers of history and culture concentrated here, you’d be wise to linger longer.
In a day, you could squeeze in a visit to the cathedral, the Sisi Museum, and the Spanish Riding School, while also dropping by the Volksgarten and the Michaelerplatz, with coffee and cakes along the way to keep you going. Come evening, take in an opera before a stroll along the lamplit Danube canal.
Ringstrasse
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