In a country that has turned festive fairs into an art form, Regensburg’s Christmas market scene takes these to a different level. First, there’s the setting. For a city that doesn’t readily come to mind when one thinks of Germany, Regensburg surely packs a huge punch. Founded as an Imperial Roman fort thanks to its strategic position at the confluence of the Danube, Naab, and Regen rivers, it went on to great prosperity in the Middle Ages. It was then that the building of a stone bridge over the Danube helped open up major trade routes between northern Europe and Venice, paving the way for a golden era.
The legacy of that today is a gorgeous UNESCO-listed city that might be under the radar compared to some of Germany’s headline acts, but delivers big on atmosphere. With cobblestone lanes, a cathedral considered one of the finest Gothic works in the country, and almost 1,500 listed buildings, Regensburg is the largest medieval town north of the Alps. What’s more, the city has four markets, each with a distinct personality.
Regensburg Christkindlmarkt, Neupfarrplatz
Regensburg Christkindlmarkt, Neupfarrplatz
If you only have time to visit one Christmas market in the city, make it this one. Dating from the 18th century and set on central Neupfarrplatz, it’s the most traditional market in the city.
The fun takes place on the historic square that sits at the heart of the Old Town and lies just a few minutes’ walk from the town’s iconic St. Peter’s Cathedral and the banks of the Danube. The market radiates out around a 16th-century German church, the Neupfarrkirche, with rows of traditional wooden stalls, and a huge Christmas tree at its heart.
Surrounding lanes are dedicated to arts and crafts and the general vibe is bustling but atmospheric. Look out for the traditional carousel—it makes for a great photo op.
The Christmas Tree, framed by the Gothic spires of the Cathedral, is about as Christmassy as a scene gets. Make sure to take in the crafts lane for hand-stitched toys and blown glass. Ride the carousel as well as photographing it, and look out for choral performances that can pop up around the square.
Mulled wine
Food here is pretty traditional. Your star snack has to be the legendary Regensburger, a local sausage served in a crusty roll with sauerkraut or mustard. Pair it with a steaming mug of mulled wine; fruit options like blueberry or apple are both popular.
There’s plenty to buy here, traditional rather than trendy, so this is your choice for classic Bavarian Christmas souvenirs. Carved wooden ornaments, hand-painted baubles, and locally made foodie gifts such as lebkuchen—gingerbread—are all great take-homes. Not all stalls take cards, so carrying some cash is a good idea.
Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt—Schloss Thurn und Taxis
When it comes to gorgeous settings for a Christmas market, the Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt—or Romantic Christmas Market—in Regensburg certainly lives up to its name.
The market is held on the grounds of St. Emmeram Palace, also known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis. This is still the seat of the Thurn und Taxis family who played a significant role in developing the first modern European postal system. St. Emmeram in turn sits on the grounds of a former eighth-century Benedictine monastery and, while part of it remains the family home, some of the grounds are open to the public.
Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt
In this centuries-old setting, timbered market stalls are set up in a series of courtyards and passageways—the ideal fairytale-like setting. The market has a real artisan focus, too. Woodcarvers, glassblowers, and textile makers work in the open and then display their work on the stalls. They largely sell the kind of thing you buy as an heirloom rather than just a souvenir.
If you’re traveling with kids, there’s also a lovely Children’s Magic Forest tucked away in one courtyard. Despite the grandeur, the market is still only a 15-minute stroll from both the Neupfarrplatz and the cathedral, making access super-easy.
This market doesn’t open until late afternoon on most days and so it feels like it’s constantly lit up. Adults can enjoy the artisan displays, and those with children will love the Magic Forest. Look out too for the Christkind—the traditional German gift bringer—who makes a regular appearance sprinkling fairy dust around the place. Remember to check out the alpacas in the arts and crafts section too.
Christmas souvenirs
Even if you’re not hungry, it’s wise to pay a visit to some of the food stalls here. Many of the artisan ones spit-roast wild boar or cook bubbling soups on open fire pits. There’s plenty to buy, too. Thanks to the artisan nature, you can pick up amazing pottery, jewelry, soaps, homemade baskets, and more.
Lucrezia-Markt
Lucrezia-Markt Photo by Dr. Matthias Ripp on Flickr, licensed under CC BY 2.0
Named after medieval author Lucrezia Borgia, also known as the “Poison Princess”, the Lucrezia Market was established in the late 1970s as an alternative to more classic Christmas fare. It’s spread across two Old Town squares, Haidplatz and Kohlenmarkt, around five minutes apart, and has a reputation for only selling handmade goods.
It’s much more compact than those at Neupfarrplatz or the Schloss and has quite the Bohemian feel, thanks to a high proportion of artisan stalls, as well as a range of artistic performances. At any given time, there may be live music, small stage shows, or craft demonstrations going on.
Essentially an arts and crafts market with a festive feel, Lucrezia-Markt is a great spot if you want to combine a bit of Christmas shopping alongside a healthy dose of culture.
Make time to visit both locations in Haidplatz and Kohlenmarkt to get the full experience. The small stages are worth a stop, especially if you see a local choir limbering up or some folk musicians tuning their instruments. Make sure to check out art exhibitions that are held in both the adjacent Thon-Dittmer-Palais and the Sigismund Chapel.
Bratwurst
Alongside the usual bratwurst and gingerbread, food here can be a little more eclectic with vegetarian and vegan bites on offer. And if you’re shopping for unique, handmade gifts, this is the spot. Browse stalls for artisan jewelry, pottery, textiles, intricate paper and metalwork, and more. Unlike Neupfarrplatz, everything is made by the sellers themselves, so you can chat to them and get a deeper insight into their processes.
Spital-Adventsmarkt at St. Katharinenspital
An iconic sight in Regensburg is its 12th-century stone bridge. A remarkable feat of medieval engineering, the bridge crosses the Danube and links the Old Town to Stadtamhof. Once a separate medieval village, this tiny island in the river is packed with historic remains, including the Rococo church and monastery complex of St. Mang, and the hospital church of St. Katharinenspital. The latter dates back to the 13th century and acted as both a place to heal the sick and a historic brewery.
Fast forward to the 21st century and the hospital is now a hotel. Its Spitalgarten—a summer beer garden—is transformed into the smallest of Regensburg’s Christmas markets. Don’t let its small size or riverside walk put you off because it’s well worth the visit.
Knitted socks
Here, the feel is much cozier and community-focused than its larger siblings across the water, making it perfect for those who want a slower, more local experience. There’s not a whole host of stalls here but there’s certainly enough to test your wallet or purse. Look out for silversmith jewelry, sheepskin products, knitted goods, and souvenirs made of olive wood.
Crossing the Stone Bridge is, without doubt, the best approach — the market unfolds with iconic views of the city cathedral behind you. Browse the stalls before warming up at a firepit. Sample some mulled wine from one of the stalls, or head inside to the brewery tavern if you’re looking for a Bavarian beer hall experience to complement your market visit. Make sure to capture one of the performances on the live stage.
Pretzels
All the usual Christmas market fare from sausages to warm pretzels, roasted nuts, and even churros is on offer here. Sample some of the Spital brewery’s own beers—not all of them are in the traditional German style. The brewery also offers more of a regular sit-down dining option.
FAQs
Is Regensburg worth visiting at Christmas?
Old Town
Quite simply, that’s a resounding yes. Where else can you get four markets for the price of one? The Old Town and the river crossing to Stadtamhof are both close together and remarkably compact, meaning you can do all four in a day: classic square, artisan palace courtyard, artsy craft fair, and cozy riverside spot. You’d be hard-pressed to find another city with so much variety in its markets.
Is there an entry fee?
Old Town
Three of the markets—Neupfarrplatz, Lucrezia, and Spital—are free to enter. The fourth, Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt at Schloss Thurn und Taxis is the exception. The charge is hardly a deal-breaker though; it’s just a few euros, with discounts for seniors, kids, and “night owls” who arrive after 7 p.m., or 8 p.m. on weekends.
What products can I find?
Gingerbread
Traditional staples—wooden ornaments, gingerbread, mulled wine mugs—but also a surprising variety of more bespoke, hand-made, and artisan products.
Any ice-skating rinks?
There’s no ice rink at any of the markets, but that actually helps make them feel a little more traditional. If you really want to get a fix, the German city is home to the Donau-Arena indoor rink. A venue for gigs and ice hockey matches, public skating is available when there are no events taking place. It’s fun, but probably not the most festive of experiences.
Regensburg
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